How to Sew a Simple Hot Pad with a Hanging Loop
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A hanging hot pad is a small but genuinely useful sewing project. It protects your hands and surfaces, and the fabric loop lets you store it on a hook instead of losing it in a crowded kitchen drawer.
This version is based on my simple square hot pad, with one additional skill: making and inserting a fabric hanging loop. You will practice straight stitching, quilting several layers together, turning a lined project, topstitching, and reinforcing a high-stress area.
Cut the main pieces at 9 inches square and sew them with a 1/4-inch seam allowance to make a finished hot pad measuring approximately 8.5 inches square.
If you are learning from the beginning, visit my Beginner Sewing Guide for an organized path through machine basics, fabric, sewing vocabulary, pattern reading, and first projects.

Quick Answer: How Do You Sew a Hot Pad with a Hanging Loop?
To sew a hanging hot pad, cut two 9-inch squares of cotton fabric, two 9-inch squares of cotton batting, and one 9-inch square of Insul-Bright. Make the loop from a 1.25-by-6-inch strip of cotton fabric. Quilt the hot-pad layers, place the fabric pieces right sides together, and position the folded loop inside one corner. Sew around the outside, leaving an opening, then turn, press, and topstitch the hot pad.
This beginner sewing project takes approximately 45 to 60 minutes and uses only straight stitches.
Table of contents
- Quick Answer: How Do You Sew a Hot Pad with a Hanging Loop?
- Important Hot Pad Safety Update
- Why Add a Hanging Loop?
- Materials and Supplies
- Before You Begin
- Step 1: Cut the Hot-Pad Pieces
- Step 2: Sew the Fabric Hanging Loop
- Step 3: Make the First Quilted Panel
- Step 4: Make the Insulated Panel
- Step 5: Layer the Hot Pad
- Step 6: Position the Hanging Loop
- Step 7: Sew Around the Hot Pad
- Step 8: Clip the Corners
- Step 9: Turn the Hot Pad Right Side Out
- Step 10: Press Carefully
- Step 11: Topstitch and Finish
- Troubleshooting a Thick Hot Pad
- How to Wash a Handmade Hot Pad
- Ways to Customize a Hanging Hot Pad
- Handmade Gift Ideas
- More Beginner Sewing Projects
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Final Thoughts
Important Hot Pad Safety Update
The hot pads shown in my original photographs were made with two layers of Insul-Bright. That is how I originally tested this project in my kitchen.
After reviewing the manufacturer’s current instructions, I updated this tutorial to use its recommended construction for potholders: one layer of Insul-Bright sandwiched between two layers of cotton batting.
The cotton batting helps absorb steam vapor when hot cookware meets cooler air. Insul-Bright reflects radiant heat, but it cannot absorb that steam vapor by itself. Follow the updated materials and layering instructions below rather than copying the insulating layers visible in the older photographs.
According to The Warm Company, it does not matter which direction the reflective side of Insul-Bright faces in a potholder. You can review the manufacturer’s Insul-Bright safety recommendations for additional information.
Insul-Bright and cotton batting are not microwave-safe. Never place this hot pad inside a microwave or conventional oven, and keep it away from open flames. Use a handmade hot pad only for brief contact with hot cookware. If you begin to feel heat through it, set the cookware down immediately.
Why Add a Hanging Loop?
A fabric loop makes a simple hot pad even more practical.
- Hang it beside the stove for easy access.
- Keep it out of crowded kitchen drawers.
- Display seasonal or coordinating fabric.
- Add a polished detail to a handmade gift.
- Practice making narrow fabric straps.
- Learn how to insert and reinforce a loop inside a seam.
If you do not want a loop, use my simple 8.5-inch hot pad tutorial instead.
Materials and Supplies
To make one approximately 8.5-inch square hanging hot pad, you will need:
- Two 9-inch squares of 100% cotton fabric
- Two 9-inch squares of cotton batting
- One 9-inch square of Insul-Bright
- One cotton fabric strip measuring 1.25 by 6 inches for the loop
- Coordinating thread
- Sewing machine
- Universal sewing-machine needle
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
- Cutting mat, if using a rotary cutter
- Quilting ruler or measuring tape
- Sewing clips or pins
- Fabric marker or tailor’s chalk
- Point turner, chopstick, or another blunt turning tool
- Iron and ironing board
- Walking foot, optional but helpful for thick layers
Quilting cotton works well because it is stable, easy to cut, and available in many coordinating prints. Avoid polyester exterior fabric because synthetic fibers may melt when exposed to high heat.
If you are unsure what to buy, my beginner’s guide to buying fabric explains fabric types and what to expect at the cutting counter.
Before You Begin
Prewash and dry your cotton fabric if you plan to machine-wash the finished hot pad. Press the fabric before measuring and cutting so the pieces are flat and accurate.
Do not machine-wash loose cotton batting before it has been quilted inside the project. It may pull apart during agitation.
Install a fresh universal needle if your current needle is old or damaged. This project contains several thick layers, and a dull needle may struggle or skip stitches.
Step 1: Cut the Hot-Pad Pieces
Cut the following pieces:
- Two cotton fabric squares measuring 9 by 9 inches
- Two cotton batting squares measuring 9 by 9 inches
- One Insul-Bright square measuring 9 by 9 inches
- One cotton fabric strip measuring 1.25 by 6 inches
Try to cut all the squares evenly. Matching pieces are easier to layer and help the finished hot pad lie flat.
The loop fabric may match the front, coordinate with the back, or provide a contrasting accent.

Step 2: Sew the Fabric Hanging Loop
Fold the 1.25-by-6-inch strip in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together. Press the fold to create a center crease.
Open the strip. Fold each long raw edge inward until it meets the center crease, then press again.
Fold the strip closed along the original center crease. All long raw edges should now be enclosed.
Topstitch along both long edges using a straight stitch. The finished strip will be narrow, so sew slowly and guide it carefully.
Fold the completed strip in half to form a loop. Match the two short raw ends. The visible portion of the loop will measure approximately 2.5 to 3 inches once it is sewn into the hot pad.
Set the loop aside.


Step 3: Make the First Quilted Panel
Place one cotton batting square on your work surface.
Lay one cotton fabric square on top with its right, or pretty, side facing up. The wrong side of the fabric should touch the batting.
Clip or pin the two layers together.
Set your machine to a straight stitch approximately 3.0 to 3.5 millimeters long. Sew one diagonal line from the upper-left corner to the lower-right corner.
This quilting line holds the fabric and batting together while you assemble the hot pad.

Step 4: Make the Insulated Panel
Place the Insul-Bright square on your work surface.
Lay the second cotton batting square on top of it. Place the remaining cotton fabric square on top with its right side facing up.
The cotton batting should be between the exterior fabric and the Insul-Bright.
Clip the three layers together. Sew one diagonal line from the upper-left corner to the lower-right corner using the same 3.0-to-3.5-millimeter straight stitch.
You should now have two panels:
- One panel made from cotton fabric and cotton batting
- One panel made from cotton fabric, cotton batting, and Insul-Bright
Step 5: Layer the Hot Pad
Place the first quilted panel on your work surface with the cotton fabric facing up.
Place the insulated panel on top with its cotton fabric facing down. The right sides of the two exterior fabrics should touch each other. The batting and Insul-Bright layers will face outward while you sew.
Align all four edges and corners.
Choose one side for the turning opening. Mark an opening approximately 3 inches wide near the center of that side.

Step 6: Position the Hanging Loop
Fold the finished loop strip in half with its two raw ends together.
Choose a corner diagonally opposite the turning opening. Slide the loop between the two cotton fabric layers at that corner.
The loop itself should point toward the center of the hot pad. Align the two short raw ends with the raw edges at the corner, allowing them to extend approximately 1/4 inch beyond the edge so the stitching securely catches both ends.
Clip the loop firmly in place. Make sure the loop is not twisted and that its folded end remains safely away from the perimeter stitching.

Step 7: Sew Around the Hot Pad
Set your machine to a straight stitch approximately 2.5 millimeters long.
Begin at one mark for the turning opening. Backstitch, then sew around the hot pad using a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Pivot at each corner with the needle down.
When you sew across the corner containing the loop, stitch over the loop ends slowly. Reverse and sew across them again two or three times to reinforce the hanging loop.
Continue around the perimeter. Stop at the second opening mark and backstitch. Leave the 3-inch opening unsewn.
If your machine struggles to feed the layers evenly, use a walking foot or slightly lengthen the stitch.

Step 8: Clip the Corners
Trim the bulk from each corner by cutting diagonally across the seam allowance.
Do not cut through the stitching. Leave a small space between your cut and the corner stitches.
At the corner containing the loop, trim carefully without cutting the loop or its reinforced stitches.
Clipping the corners reduces bulk and helps the finished corners turn more neatly.
Step 9: Turn the Hot Pad Right Side Out
Carefully pull the hot pad through the 3-inch opening.
Use a point turner, chopstick, crochet hook, or another blunt tool to shape the corners. Do not use anything sharp enough to puncture the fabric or stitches.
Gently pull the hanging loop outward and check that both ends are secured inside the seam.
Roll the seams between your fingers to work the fabric completely toward the edges.
Fold the raw edges of the turning opening inward so they align with the sewn edge. Clip the opening closed.

Step 10: Press Carefully
Press the cotton exterior and edges so the hot pad lies flat. Avoid holding a hot iron directly over the Insul-Bright area for an extended time.
The turning opening may feel bulky. Insert your fingers into the opening and gently pull against the backstitched ends. This helps the raw edges fold along the same line as the sewn seam.
Arrange the corners and opening carefully before topstitching.
Step 11: Topstitch and Finish
Set your straight stitch to approximately 3.5 to 4.0 millimeters long.
Beginning near the turning opening, topstitch around the entire hot pad approximately 1/8 inch from the edge. This closes the opening and creates a neat finished border.
Backstitch at the beginning and end.
When you reach the hanging-loop corner, slow down and make sure the loop stays out of the needle’s path.
If desired, sew another diagonal quilting line in the opposite direction to form an X. Additional quilting helps secure the layers during washing and regular use.

Troubleshooting a Thick Hot Pad
Several layers can be challenging for a beginner sewing machine. These adjustments may help:
- Install a fresh needle.
- Use a walking foot if you have one.
- Lengthen the stitch slightly when topstitching.
- Sew slowly across the corners and loop.
- Turn the handwheel manually through unusually thick spots.
- Use a seam jumper or folded scrap behind the presser foot if it tilts at a bulky edge.
- Do not pull the fabric from behind the machine.
If the needle bends, breaks, or repeatedly skips stitches, stop and replace it before continuing.
How to Wash a Handmade Hot Pad
Once the layers have been quilted securely, machine-wash the hot pad in cool or warm water with mild detergent. Tumble dry on low or lay it flat to dry.
Inspect the hot pad regularly. Stop using it with hot cookware if the exterior becomes scorched, the insulating layers shift, the loop loosens, or the stitching opens.
Do not put the hot pad in a microwave or conventional oven.
Ways to Customize a Hanging Hot Pad
Once you understand the basic construction, try one of these variations:
- Use different coordinating fabrics on the front and back.
- Make the loop from contrasting fabric.
- Add a second diagonal quilting line.
- Quilt a simple grid or diamond pattern.
- Add machine embroidery before assembling the layers.
- Use seasonal fabric for fall or Christmas.
- Make several from coordinating fat quarters.
- Change the loop length to fit a larger or smaller hook.
Complete any embroidery or decorative stitching before assembling the two panels so the thread backs remain hidden inside the hot pad.
Handmade Gift Ideas
A hanging hot pad is practical enough to use every day but pretty enough to include in a gift.
Pair it with:
- A handwritten family recipe
- Wooden spoons or kitchen utensils
- Homemade bread or cookies
- A casserole dish
- A matching half apron
- Reusable cloth napkins
- A casserole-size hot pad
- A jar of homemade seasoning or baking mix
Sew several pieces from coordinating fabric to create a housewarming, hostess, wedding, Christmas, or Hope Chest gift set.

More Beginner Sewing Projects
Continue practicing with another useful project:
- How to Sew a Simple 8.5-Inch Hot Pad
- How to Sew a Casserole Dish Hot Pad
- How to Sew Cloth Napkins with Mitered Corners
- How to Sew a Half Apron
- How to Sew Reusable Jar and Bowl Covers
Return to the Beginner Sewing Guide whenever you need help with machine basics, fabric, sewing terms, pattern reading, or choosing your next project.
Frequently Asked Questions
Begin with a cotton fabric strip measuring 1.25 by 6 inches. After folding, stitching, and sewing the raw ends into the corner seam, the visible hanging loop will measure approximately 2.5 to 3 inches long.
Place the folded loop between the two exterior fabric layers at one corner, with the loop pointing toward the center and the raw ends extending slightly beyond the fabric edges. Sew over the raw ends two or three times to reinforce the loop.
Use two layers of cotton batting with one layer of Insul-Bright sandwiched between them. The cotton batting helps absorb steam vapor, while the Insul-Bright reflects radiant heat toward the cookware.
No. The manufacturer says the reflective side can face either direction in a hot pad. The important part is placing the Insul-Bright between two layers of cotton batting.
No. Insul-Bright, cotton batting, and other batting products are not recommended for microwave use. Never place this hot pad inside a microwave or conventional oven, and keep it away from open flames.
Final Thoughts
Adding a hanging loop is a small change, but it introduces several useful sewing skills. You will practice folding a narrow fabric strap, inserting it into a seam, reinforcing a high-stress area, sewing through thick layers, turning corners, and topstitching.
Do not worry if your first loop is not perfectly centered or every line of topstitching is straight. Finish the project, use what you learned, and make another. Each completed project builds more control and confidence at your sewing machine.
Kim is a homeschooling mama of 5 who has been teaching her children at home since the very beginning — from preschool through high school. Over the past decade, she and her family have built a homestead from the ground up, starting with meat and egg chickens, growing into a large garden, and learning to preserve their harvest.
She taught herself to sew 13 years ago through books and early YouTube tutorials, and has been making modest, affordable clothing for her girls ever since.
Cooking from scratch became a necessity and a passion as her family learned to eat more nutritionally and live more frugally. She tests all of her sourdough and fresh milled flour recipes on the kids to ensure they’re delicious and nutritious.
At Plain Living, Kim shares what she’s actually lived — not theory, but the real skills she’s picked up through years of trial, error, and love for her family and home.

